Tuesday, January 29, 2008

Collar Notes

I was looking at Knitter's magazine, Summer 2005, K79 and read a good article on knitting collars. The article was written by Maureen Mason-Jamieson. I include the highlights of the article.

Create a smooth curved neckline
  • Instead of using bind off 2 sts at once, work a single left-leaning decrease (SSK on the right-side row) then bind off the remaining stitch. Reverse shaping on the other side of the neckline, the wrong side of the knitting will be facing you. Purl 2 sts together, forming a right-leaning decrease. then bind of the remaining stitch. No stair steps.
Pick up stitches
  • Use a needle two sizes smaller than the sweater was knitted. Stitches will be small and be small and discrete.
  • Pick up stitches in the "V" shape of the stitch as in a column rather than inbetween the stitch.
  • Write down the number of stitches in each section: center front to the diagonal, along the vertical to the shoulder seam, and from the seam to the center back. Pick up the same number in each section on the opposite side.
  • For a cardigan, skip 1 knitted column before beginning to pick up collar stitches and leave 1 column at the end. The first and last column stitches will be incoporated in the button bands.
  • Pick up 1 stitch for every stitch bound off (or placed on a holder) at the center front or center back. Along a diagonal, pick up 5 stitches for every 6 rows or 7 stitches for every 8 rows. On vertical edges, pick up 3 stitches for every 4 rows.

Collar Stand
  • After stitches have been pick up, work 2 rows of knit 1, purl 1 ribbing to create and stand for the collar. This will form a strong support for the collar.
  • Increase 1 st at the back center of the first row of the collar pattern so you have an odd number of stitches, and begin and end with a knit stitch.
  • It is also helpful to include an edge stitch at the beginning and end of your collar. Work these stitches in stockinette, they will roll under, leaving the collar pattern showing.
Increase for the roll of the collar
  • After knitting the 2 to 4 rows of ribbing, adjust the number of stitches on your needle to accommodate the collar stitch pattern on the next row. At the same time, create the 'break' or roll line by increasing approximately 1" worth of stitches across the back neck between the shoulder seams. Depending on gauge, this 1" will usually be 4, 5, or 6 stitches. For a baby or small child it will be 3/4" , a large person will be 1 1/4". These extra stitches will for the collar to roll outward.

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